Fire was the first kitchen. We never saw a reason to change.

From Getaria to the Croix-Rousse.

Mateo Etcheverrygrew up in the smoke of Getaria's asadors, where whole turbot cook over coals in the street. Ten years in fine kitchens taught him precision; the asadors had already taught him the point of it.

In 2021he found a silk-weaver's workshop on the slopes of the Croix-Rousse, tore out the gas line, and built a hearth of Burgundy stone. BRASA opened with 28 chairs and one rule: if it doesn't pass through the fire, it doesn't reach the table.

The wood is oak from the Beaujolais hills and old vine stock from growers we buy from anyway — the same vines that fill the wine list. The fire is lit at seven each morning. Service ends when the embers do.